En un foro ingles explican como cambiar el amortiguador de otra manera según dice él que lo escribe es la forma mas rápida, pero la verdad que entre mi poco conocimiento de la mecánica y hay piezas especificas en ingles que no se lo que son, se me escala de las manos. ¿Me podéis echar una mano?
Os dejo los pasos a seguir, a ver si vosotros conseguís entender los pasos a seguir, yo entiendo mas o menos hasta el paso 7. Muchas gracias.
Lo cito
"I performed this at the weekend and it took me 4 hours with a friend and a ramp/power tools. However, if we done it again we could do the whole lot in 2 hours i think. We spend 2 hours on one side trying to avoid taking the crash beams out by loosening the lower ball joint etc (you do not need to loosen the lower ball joint), when we should have just taken them out as suggested on here.
So here's the full walk through:
I would highly recommend using a ramp and power tools as this will save you a TON of time and hassle. I would also ask an experienced friend to help.
1) Raise car on ramp,
2) While one person removes the wheel, the other can unscrew the bumper tray and engine tray at the bottom of the car. Remove and place both parts to the side.
3) Undo the 2 Allen head screws (depending on what caliper you have you may have bolts) securing the caliper and remove, detach brake flexi from the shock absorber and cable tie the caliper aside to support the weight.
4) Undo and detach the anti-roll bar link from shock.
5) Detach ABS sensor and brake pad warning wire from shock-absorber.
6) Remove bolt securing shock to the hub carrier. The hub carrier Will now wiggle downwards but at this point it will NOT clear the hub carrier.
7) Remove the inner wheel arch mud guard. These are small philips screws. After this you should be able to see the silver metal crash beam.
8) Get a ratchet gun and remove the four bolts from the metal crash beam front. Then remove the 2 bolts at the back.
9) There is also a black bracket attached to this beam. Remove the bottom bolt, and just loosen the top and move it out the way. This will enable you to remove the crash beam. Note: the driver's side beam may require some gentle persuasion to get it past the airbox.
10) With the beam removed, undo the 3 bolts holding the wishbone in. Have someone support the hub while doing this.
11) After this has been done, the wishbone will now lower and you should now have enough leeway to (using brute force) separate the shock from the hub carrier. You may need to move it around slightly to get it out. You can also use a spring compressor to give you some extra leeway. The one i used was heavy duty and we struggled to get it on the spring considering the tight space you are working with.
12) Open the bonnet, and look at the top of the shock. You will see a black cover on it. Carefully remove this lid to expose the top of the shock. Now carefully separate the black plastic clips that secures the shocker to the top mount. Ensure you have someone to assist to support the strut assembly as it may drop. I would suggest that after the spring is removed you place a bolt back into the wishbone so that the hub is supported.
13) After removing the spring, ensure to place the new springs the correct way up and remove and install the necessary parts from the old spring onto the new. Ensure you have the strut top bearing correctly positioned and the strut is straight, you will see this by lining the holes up.
14) Refit in reverse order.
15) The back springs are very easy. You only need a heavy duty spring compressor as they are not on the shock. Compress the spring and remove. Add the new springs. (10 minute job each side)
16) Get the wheel alignment done ASAP.
Following this instructions it should take no longer that 2-2.5 hours! Thanks for everyone who gave me a hand."